During our first month with a rescue dog and a newly adopted cat, I spent half my time Googling weird behaviors.
Why is the dog hiding under the bed? Why is the cat scratching the sofa when she has a scratching post? Why does the dog get sudden bursts of insane energy at 10 PM? And why won't either of them stop whining?
I worried constantly. Was this normal? Was I doing something wrong? Was my pet secretly miserable or, worse, "broken"?
Some nights I lay awake, convinced I'd made a terrible mistake and that my house would never feel calm again.
I learned this one the messy way.
Here's what I eventually figured out: not all behaviors are created equal. Some are just your pet's way of adjusting to a new life—they need time and patience. Others are signals that something in your setup or routine needs to change. And a few are red flags that require professional help.
The trick is knowing which is which.
In this post, I'll break down four of the most common beginner‑panic behaviors—hiding, scratching, zoomies, and whining—and give you a simple framework to decide: time or change?
The Framework: Time vs. Change
Before we dive into specific behaviors, here's my rule of thumb for deciding whether something just needs patience or requires action:
Time (patience) if:
The behavior is new (first few weeks).
It's decreasing in frequency or intensity.
Your pet is still eating, drinking, and using the bathroom normally.
The behavior happens in specific, predictable contexts (e.g., after a loud noise).
Change (intervention) if:
The behavior is getting worse over time.
It's causing injury to your pet, you, or your home.
Your pet is not eating, drinking, or eliminating normally.
The behavior is constant, not situational.
You've tried waiting for more than a few weeks with no improvement.
Now let's apply this to hiding, scratching, zoomies, and whining.
Behavior #1: Hiding
What it looks like:
Your dog retreats under the bed, behind the couch, or into a closet. Your cat disappears for hours, only emerging when the house is quiet.
Is this normal?
Yes, especially in the first few weeks. Hiding is a survival instinct. New environments are overwhelming, and hiding gives your pet a sense of control and safety.
When to give it time:
First 1‑2 weeks: This is completely normal. Let them hide. Don't drag them out.
They come out on their own to eat, drink, and use the litter box (or go outside).
They're slowly venturing out for longer periods.
When to change something:
They hide for more than 3‑4 weeks without improvement.
They refuse to come out even for food or water.
They're hiding in unsafe places (e.g., behind appliances, under a heavy piece of furniture that could shift).
They're showing signs of illness (lethargy, not eating, vomiting).
What to change:
Provide safe spaces: Set up a quiet, cozy den (crate with a blanket, a covered bed, a cat cave) in a low‑traffic area. Make it inviting with treats and a worn t‑shirt of yours.
Reduce stressors: Limit visitors, loud noises, and chaos in the house. Give them a break from other pets.
Create positive associations: When they come out, toss a treat (don't force interaction). Let them learn that emerging = good things.
If they're still hiding after weeks: Consider whether there's an undiagnosed medical issue (pain can cause hiding). A vet check may be in order.
My experience: Our cat hid for nearly two weeks. We gave her space, put her food and litter box in her safe room, and let her come out at night. By week three, she was exploring. By month two, she owned the house. Time was the answer.
Behavior #2: Scratching (Cats) / Chewing (Dogs)
What it looks like:
Your cat shreds the sofa, the curtains, or the door frames. Your dog chews the table legs, shoes, or baseboards.
Is this normal?
Yes, for both species. Cats scratch to mark territory and keep their claws healthy. Dogs chew to relieve teething pain (puppies), boredom, or anxiety.
When to give it time:
Young puppies: teething chewing is temporary. Provide appropriate chew toys, and it usually fades as adult teeth come in.
Cats: They need to scratch. It's natural. But you need to redirect, not eliminate.
When to change something:
The scratching or chewing is destructive to valuable items.
It's happening excessively (e.g., your dog is obsessively chewing herself or your cat is pulling out fur).
It's accompanied by other signs of anxiety or distress.
What to change:
Provide appropriate outlets: For cats, get a sturdy scratching post (at least 3 feet tall) and place it near the furniture they like to scratch. Use catnip to attract them. For dogs, provide a variety of chew toys (rope, rubber, dental chews) and rotate them to keep interest.
Discourage the wrong spots: Use double‑sided tape or aluminum foil on furniture (cats hate the texture). For dogs, use bitter apple spray on items you don't want chewed.
Increase exercise and mental stimulation: Many scratching/chewing problems stem from boredom. More walks, playtime, and puzzle toys can reduce the urge.
If it persists: Consider whether it's anxiety‑related. Separation anxiety or stress can cause destructive behavior. You may need a behaviorist or anti‑anxiety medication.
My experience: Our cat destroyed one couch arm before I gave up and bought a tall scratching post. I placed it right next to the couch. After a week of redirecting, she used the post 90% of the time. The remaining 10%? That's why we have slipcovers.
Behavior #3: Zoomies (FRAPs)
What it looks like:
Your dog tears around the house at lightning speed, spinning in circles, bouncing off furniture. Your cat dashes from room to room, climbs the curtains, and then collapses.
Is this normal?
Absolutely. Zoomies, technically called Frenetic Random Activity Periods, are bursts of energy release. They're common in young animals and often happen at predictable times—like after a bath, before bedtime, or after a period of confinement.
When to give it time:
Zoomies are usually harmless and short‑lived (5‑10 minutes).
They're triggered by excitement or pent‑up energy.
Your pet is otherwise healthy and calm afterward.
When to change something:
Zoomies are happening multiple times a day and lasting a long time.
They occur in dangerous environments (near stairs, glass tables).
They're accompanied by aggression or destructive behavior.
Your pet seems distressed or obsessive during the episodes.
What to change:
Increase daily exercise: Most zoomies are a sign of not enough physical activity. Add an extra walk, a play session, or a puzzle toy to tire them out.
Create a "wind‑down" routine: If zoomies happen at night, try a calming ritual before bed—a gentle walk, some brushing, or quiet time.
Provide safe space: If zoomies are inevitable, clear the area of breakables, close off stairs, and let them run it out. Don't chase or yell—they'll think it's a game.
Check for triggers: Do zoomies happen after meals? After stressful events? Avoid the trigger if possible.
My experience: My dog gets zoomies every night at 9 PM. It used to annoy me, but now I just clear the coffee table, open the back door, and let her run in the yard for 5 minutes. She crashes after. It's not a problem—it's just her energy release.
Behavior #4: Whining / Meowing Excessively
What it looks like:
Your dog whines at the door, at you, or seemingly for no reason. Your cat meows loudly and persistently, especially at odd hours.
Is this normal?
Whining and meowing are forms of communication. They can mean "I need something" (food, potty, attention) or "I'm anxious." Puppies and kittens are more vocal as they learn the rules.
When to give it time:
First few nights: whining in the crate is normal. It should decrease within a few days as they settle.
Occasional meowing at meal times: normal communication.
When to change something:
Whining is constant, not situational.
It's escalating despite your attempts to meet needs.
It's accompanied by other anxiety signs (panting, pacing, destruction).
It's disrupting sleep or daily life, and it's been going on for weeks.
What to change:
Rule out physical needs: Always check food, water, and potty first. If those are met, move to the next step.
Ignore attention‑seeking whining: This is hard, but if you give in, you teach them that whining works. Wait for a moment of quiet, then give attention.
Increase mental stimulation: Boredom is a common cause. Provide puzzle toys, training sessions, or scent games.
Address separation anxiety: If whining happens only when you leave, you may need to work on desensitization. Start with short departures and gradually increase time away.
Consider medical causes: Excessive vocalization can be a sign of pain, cognitive decline (in seniors), or hyperthyroidism (in cats). If nothing else works, see a vet.
My experience: My dog would whine at the back door even when I'd just taken her out. I realized she was whining because she saw a squirrel in the yard—she wanted to chase it. I started closing the blinds, and the whining stopped. It wasn't a need; it was a desire. I had to change the environment.
The Decision Matrix
Here's a quick cheat sheet to help you decide:
Behavior | Give Time If... | Change Something If... |
|---|---|---|
Hiding | <2 weeks, still eating/drinking | >3 weeks, not eating, unsafe location |
Scratching/Chewing | Normal amounts, occasional | Destroying valuable items, causing injury, excessive |
Zoomies | Short, predictable, harmless | Dangerous, extreme frequency, aggressive |
Whining/Meowing | First nights, meal times | Constant, escalating, no clear need, disrupting life |
When to Call in a Pro
If you've given time and made changes, and the behavior is still problematic after 4‑6 weeks, it's time to seek help.
Start with your vet: Rule out medical causes first. Pain, illness, and age‑related changes can cause behavior shifts.
Then consult a certified behaviorist: Not a "trainer" who uses punishment, but a professional (veterinary behaviorist or certified applied animal behaviorist) who uses positive, science‑based methods.
There's no shame in asking for help. Some issues are beyond a beginner's toolkit. I called a behaviorist for my dog's separation anxiety, and it was the best decision I made.
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